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Clothing
is defined, in its broadest sense,
as coverings for the torso and limbs
as well as coverings for the hands
(gloves), feet (socks, shoes, sandals,
boots) and head (hats, caps). Humans
nearly universally wear clothing,
which is also known as dress, garments,
attire, or apparel. People wear
clothing for functional as well
as for social reasons. Clothing
protects the vulnerable nude human
body from the extremes of weather,
other features of our environment,
and for safety reasons. Every article
of clothing also carries a cultural
and social meaning. Human beings
are the only mammals known to wear
clothing, with the exception of
human pets clothed by their owners.
People
also decorate their bodies with
makeup or cosmetics, perfume, and
other ornamentation; they also cut,
dye, and arrange the hair of their
heads, faces, and bodies (see hairstyle),
and sometimes also mark their skin
(by tattoos, scarifications, and
piercings). All these decorations
contribute to the overall effect
and message of clothing, but do
not constitute clothing per se.
Sari
researchers say that the nivi style
of draping has been popularised
by Bollywood movies. Sari enthusiasts
lament that it is replacing regional
styles of draping the sari, some
of which, say wearers, are more
secure or more comfortable. |
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Sari::
A sari (also spelled saree)
is the traditional garment worn
by many women in the Indian
subcontinent. The garment is
known by different names in
various Indian languages; in
Hindi, Punjabi, Malayalam, Gujarati
and Marathi, it is known as
sari; in Kannada as seere; Telegu
as cheera, in Bengali as shari
and in Tamil as podavai. The
most common style of draping
the sari is wrapped around the
waist, then one end is draped
over the shoulder. However,
the sari can be draped in several
different styles, though some
styles do require a sari of
a particular length or form.
The French cultural anthropologist
and sari researcher, Chantal
Boulanger, categorizes sari
drapes in the following families:
Nivi
– styles originally worn
in Andhra Pradesh; besides the
modern nivi, there is also the
kaccha nivi, where the pleats
are passed through the legs
and tucked into the waist at
the back. This allows free movement
while covering the legs.
North Indian/Gujarati –
this style differs from the
nivi only in the manner that
the loose end is handled: in
this style, the loose end is
draped over the right shoulder
rather than the left, and is
also draped back-to-front rather
than the other way around.
Maharashtrian/Kache
– This drape (front and
back) is very similar to that
of the male Maharashtrian dhoti.
The center of the sari (held
lengthwise) is placed at the
center back, the ends are brought
forward and tied securely, then
the two ends are wrapped around
the legs. When worn as a sari,
an extra-long cloth is used
and the ends are then passed
up over the shoulders and the
upper body. They are primarily
worn by Brahmin women of Maharashtra,
Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and
Tamil Nadu. Kodagu style –
This drape is confined to ladies
hailing from the Kodagu district
of Karnataka. In this style,
the pleats are created in the
rear, instead of the front.
The loose end of the sari is
draped back-to-front over the
right shoulder, and is pinned
to the rest of the sari. |
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| How
to wear sari |
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The nivi drape starts with one end of the sari tucked
into the waistband of the petticoat. The cloth is
wrapped around the lower body once, then hand-gathered
into even pleats just below the navel. The pleats
are also tucked into the waistband of the petticoat.
The pleats form what is called, in Western culture,
a kick-pleat; they make walking easier. They also
create a graceful, decorative effect which poets
have likened to the petals of a flower. Older sari
styles secured these pleats with a knot (possible
only with extremely finely-woven cloth, for which
India has always been famous).
After one more turn around the waist, the loose
end is draped over the shoulder. The loose end is
called the pallu or pallav. It is draped diagonally
in front of the torso. It is worn across the right
hip to over the left shoulder, partly baring the
midriff. The navel can be revealed or concealed
by the wearer by adjusting the pallu, depending
on the social setting in which the sari is being
worn. The long end of the pallu hanging from the
back of the shoulder is often intricately decorated.
Some nivi styles are worn with the pallu draped
from the back towards the front.
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